Plum Burl Bowl

Plum burl from Lang Smith's Ancient plum tree.

This was rough turned some time ago:

see Plum Burl Bowl

Cracks filled with coffe grounds and CA glue

This piece broke out when rough turning it and was replced and bedded in expoxy with wood colored dye added.


Wet sanded with walnut oil and then sealed with Zinzzer's SealCoat (dewaxed shellac) – two coats. Then finished with Crystal Coat an oil/alcohol/shellac mixture like High Build Friction Polish aka OB Shine Juice.

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Birch Bowl

This birch bowl (10" x 3 1/2") was rought turned a couple of years ago and abandoned. I pulled out of teh burn pile and repaired a ring check with CA glue and finished turning it.

Wet sanded with walnut oil (80-320), applied Zinzers SealCoat sanding sealer (two coats with sanding in between), and the after resanding to 320, applied several coats of High Build Friction Polish. 

Turned out OK for a rescued throw-away.

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Cedar bowl

Cedar bowl (9" x 5 1/2") from a billet of old grow cedar from Roger Heinen:

This was going to be a yarn bowl but i couldn't bring myself to cut the channel for the yarn- the wood is so pretty.


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Red Oak Bowl

Red oak bowl (11 1/4" x 4 1/2") – also rescued form the burn pile. This bowl was partially turned and then abondoned for a couple of years because of lage cracks that appeared as it dried.

I filled them with epoxy mixed with fillet that had a brown color almost matching the oak color.

these cracks went all the way through: The cracks don't look great, but the bowl functions as a fruit bowl in the kitchen.:


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Oak Bowl (Jet 1220) [COVID-19 Bowl 4]

Oak Bowl from a log from Toby Nagurney

(7" x 2")

This log was from the other end of the crotch used in Bowl 3

See Oak Bowl (Jet 1220) [COVID-19 Bowl 3]



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Carbide Cutter Gouge Handle (Jet 1220)

Handle for Carbide Cutter

From a piece of firewood (species unknown)

Using a copper pipe fitting for the ferrule:

Finished with two coats of Watco Danish Oil

After I was done, I decided to add some detail to the handle. So I removed the bar and turned a conical head piece to hold the handle centered on the lathe.

Then I mounted the handle as shown. And with the diamond shaped carbide cutter, I cut small grooves in the handle, and then with a guitar string I burned the detail lines as shown:

Blow up of one end

and blowup of the other end

Final result with re-assembled handle and bar. I took this opprotunity to drill out the hole a little more so that the bar would fit all the way into the handle.

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Oak Bowl (Jet 1220) [COVID-19 Bowl 3]

Oak Bowl from a crotch

(8" X 2 5/8")

(Log was a gift from Toby Nagurney)

After turning the outside, had to deal with this split knot; the holes went all the way through

and these cracks throughout:

The knot and cracks were filled with a mixture of epoxy and coffee grounds – two applications – blue tape on the inside

Final results: The knots came out great:

Finished with

1. Wet Sanded with Abranet 2" discs 80-320 grit with walnut oil.

2. Two coats of walnut oil  (with 1 day wait after each coat)

3. Two coats of Watco Danish oil (plus one day await)

4. Mylands lacquer based sanding sealer …

5. Followed by 4-5 coats of Mylands High Build Friction Polish


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Spalted Oak Bowl (Jet 1220) [COVID-19 Bowl 2]

Spalted Oak Bowl:

 (6 1/2" X 2 7/8")

From an oak log from Toby Nagurney. 

Finished with

1. Wet sanding with Abranet 2" discs 80-320 grit and walnut oil.

2. MinWax water based sanding sealer (Two coats, sanding after each)

3. Walnut oil (2 coats) – (one day wait after each coat)

4. Watco Danish Oil (2 coats) (and 12 hour wait after second coat)

5. Myland's High Build Friction Polish. (4-5 coats)


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Apple Bowl (Jet 1220) [COVID-19 Bowl 1]

Apple bowl turned on the Jet 1220 lathe (7 1/4" x 2 3/4")  

Finished with Minwax water based sanding sealer, Mahoney's walnut oil, Watco Danish Oil, and Mylands High Build Friction polish.




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Plum Burl Bowl

Plum burl from Lang Smith's ancient plum tree:

A big piece of a knot flew off and had to be epoxied back in with West Systems G5  5 min epoxy with Transtint dye added.

after turning

After applying walnut oil


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Spalted Apple Hollow Form

Hollow Form from Lang Smith's apple tree. (7" x 3 1/2")

Started out between centers, shaped the sides and turned a tenon on the bottom.

Then reverse mounted it in the four jaw scroll chuck.

Drilled out the center with a 2 1/4" Forstner bit to the final depth.

And used an EasyWood hollowing tool to remove most of the inside.

Finished and wet sanded by hand with Mahoney's Walnut Oil Utility Finish using Abranet 80-320 grits

The bottom tenon was removed by reverse chucking the bowl by the hole in expansion mode:

Bottom after the tenon was removed. Sanded and finished.

then …

The bowl was mounted on a jam chuck that was made from a piece of poplar. The jam chuck was cut in a taper to mate the hole. A jam chuck was used so that I had complete access to apply the finish to the top area around the hole.

and a "soft touch" was screwed to the live center on the tail piece to hold the bowl in place:

Here's the result after applying the Hi-build friction polish:

This piece was inspired by Joel Gerber of Solana Beach, California.

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Poplar desk from downed tree

On Septecber 11, 2013, a huge storm hit Islesboro and brought down over 2000 trees on the island.

We lost several including a large poplar tree that totalled our 1998 Honda.

What was left of the Honda. (It was salvaged with a new windshield, and we still drive it; it still has visible dents, but it runs fine. Makes for a good "island beater")

After sitting in the woods for a year (August, 2014), I decided to try milling the tree trunk into planks. My friend Preston has an Alaska Chainsaw Mill and so …

we dicided to give it a try:

We milled the log into planks about 2 1/2" thick

John Kauer pitched in too:

The planks were stacked and stickered:

and allowed to season for a couple of years. 

After a couple of years, every plank had split right down the middle of the pith, So I chainsaw ripped each plank into two boards, and then in 2018, I proceeded to resaw those lengthwise into 1 1/2" boards on the band saw to give me a bunch of book-matched, very rough boards of varying random thickness (+/-1/4")

The 2×4 was attached to give me a reference to the bandsaw table to keep the planks upright.

After another year – in 2018, I jointed the boards by hand with No. 5 and No. 4 hand planes. Then I glued up the book matched boards and hand planed them flat with the No. 5 mostly and also flattened with a number 7 Lie-Neilson jointer plane (What a beauty that thing is).

The top of the desk is about 60" by 27"and is made up of two pairs of bookmathed sections with an added natural edge board for the front side.

After cutting the top to length, 3 coats of boiled linseed oil followed by 5-6 coats of General Finishes Arm-R-Seal satin poly urethane applied with a rag.

I discoved that I had an old table whose legs I could cannibalize. So I proceeded to dismantle the entire leg assembly and glue it all back together with epoxy.

After 3 coats of boiled linseed oil

After 6 coats of hand wiped General Finishes Arm-R-Seal Oil-poly Varnish


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Yarn Bowl

The log for this bowl came from Brandon and Sharon's Japaese Maple tree that was cut down in 2012.

This yarn bowl is a gift for Sandy Oliver.

Here's how I did this.

Mounted in the 4-jaw chuck after shaping between centers and cutting the tenon.

… other side showing the natural edge from a bark inclusion. I decided to leave this in as a feature.

Now to turn out the inside:

Ran into a defect in the insde that had to be filled with CA glue and sawdust to stabilize it.

After thinning the walls, cutting the slot for the yarn, and applying a coat or two of Watco Natural Danish oil:

And after drying

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Carver’s Mallet from firewood

Small carver's mallet – could also function as a garlic smasher. Haven't decided yet.

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Small Bowl from Firewood

Another small bowl from firewood. Shallow bowl for holding small things at the sink. Very stable and very wide bottom section:

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Small Bowl from Firewood

One of the first turings of mine on the new Cambridge MA joint shop set up with Bill Lahey.

Jet 1221 Lathe and Laguna 14/Twelve bandsaw.

This small bowl was turned from fire wood. Don't know which species but it is very close grained and hard.

Finsihed with walnut oil.


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Bill Lahey’s First Cherry Bowl

The cherry log was a gift from Preston Hensley.

Trurned on the Jet Lathe.


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Joint Shop In Cambridge, MA

The Joint Cambridge Shop so far comprises the Jet 1221 Lathe and the Laguna 14/Twelve BAndsaw and a 8" slow speed grinder with CBN wheel and Wolverine Vari-Grind sharpening jig, and several carbide, bowl, and spindle gouges.


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Small Plum Bowl

Wood from Lang Smith's Ancient Plum tree.

1.5" x 3.5"

Finished with Walnut oil.

Gave this to Roger and Marny as a thank-you.


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Cherry Burl Bowl 9″

The burl was a gift from Preston Hensley.

Finished with walnut oil, followed with a coating of besswax/sunflower oil (which was a gift from Holly Spaulding)

(dia 9 1/2" x 4" height) 


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Cedar Bowl

From a cedar log – a gift from John and Carlisle Rex-Waller from their cedar tree felled tin 2016.

Fnshed with walnut oil and shellac.

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Driftwood Salt Cellars

These two little bowls were turned from a single smaller diameter log cut from the thin end of the driftwood log–past the end of that small branch shown here:

The piece cut off:

(FYI: The axis of the little log was perpendicular to the axis of roatation)

After turning into a near sphere, tenons were cut into each side and then the "sphere" was cut in half: It is shown here after cutting it in half with a parting tool.

Each little bowl was turned to remove the material from the inside of the bowl and then each half was reverse mounted in the cole chuck:

The tenon was removed and the bottom finished off:

This resulted in the two salt cellars:

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Driftwood Bowl

This dirftwood tree had washed up on our shore:

Species was unknown, but is probably maple.

Several chucks were cut out and bowls were turned.

The first bowl was from a larger dimaeter piece:

cut in half

Trimmed on the bandsaw

After turn it true (round) and turning a spigot on the bottom.

After turning it round I thought I had run into a nail but it turned out to be a piece of bird shot (lead and not steel)


I poked it out with an awl expecting it to be a nail but it popped right out:


Finished with tung oil, shellac and alcohol

I still have to reverse and turn off the tenon.

The knot was filled and stabilized with epoxy mixed with fillet.

Final result: finished with Tung oil + shellac + alcohol

Nice chatoyancy

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Walnut Bowl

The log blank was given to me by my sister and brother-in-law in 2012 from a walnut tree that had been lying in their woods for a few years. The sap wood had completely rotted but the core of the log was in good shape.

Cut in half:

Trimmed and then turned rough:


This bowl was turned rough in June 2012 and allowed to dry slowly, being weighed every few months.


Finally got back to it in the fall of 2017; the rough turned blank was turned to its final dimensions (14" x 6"); and then in January, 2018 I finished it up.



After turning the inside and shaping most of the outside, I had to devise a jam chuck to turn the tenon off the bottom. (My Cole chuck was too small for this bowl.) I had a 20" diameter piece of 3/4" MDF board that was glued together with a couple of pine blocks. I drilled a hole in the smaller one and inserted a wormwood screw – like so:

I super-glued a piece of 1/4" rubber mat that I had lying around onto the front of the MDF to make a non-skid surface. After finding the center point of the bowl (I had sanded off the little divot earlier to fit the tenon into the scroll chuck) I pulled up the tail stock and centered the bowl on the jam chuck.


I turned off the tenon down to a small nub that I subsquently popped off with a chisel. Then I sanded the bottom and applied walnut oil:

The bowl was sanded through the grits from P60 to P1000 and Mahoney's Utilty Walnut oil appled in several coats.

Final bowl, bottom views

180o view

Top view


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Ash Bowl

From a bolt of ash given to me by Tom Tutor. (~14 x ~5").


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